Cognac & Armagnac

COGNAC & ARMAGNAC : A FRENCH BRANDY MASTERCLASS

I. COGNAC REGION

Cognac is a variety of brandy named after the commune of Cognac, France. It is produced in the surrounding departments of Charente and Charente-Maritime, parts of Deux-Sèvres and Dordogne. It is produced by twice distilling wine made from grapes grown in any of the designated growing regions.

1. Crus (Growing Areas – from best to basic):

1. Grande Champagne (13,000 Ha), shallow clay limestone over chalky linmestone – finest, most age-worthy, floral.
2. Petite Champagne (16,000 Ha) – finesse but less complex. Cognacs made from a mixture of Grande and Petite Champagne eaux de vie (with at least 50% Grande Champagne) may be marketed as "Fine Champagne".
3. Borderies (4,000 Ha), clay and flint – rarest (5%), nutty, violet aromas.
4. Fins Bois (34,000 Ha), heavy clay, red clay-limestone and stony soils – round, fruity, ages faster.
5. Bons Bois & Bois Ordinaires (20,000 Ha), poorer soil influenced by maritime climate – rustic, less used in fine blends.
6. Bois a Terroirs, sandy soil, spanning coastal areas and some valleys.

Grapes

The white wine used in making cognac is very dry, acidic, and thin. Though the base wine is undrinkable, it is excellent for distillation and aging. It may be made only from a strict list of grape varieties. For it to be considered a true cru cognac, the white wine must be made from at least 90% Ugni blanc (known in Italy as Trebbiano), Folle blanche and Colombard, while up to 10% of the grapes used can be Folignan, Jurançon blanc, Meslier St-François (also called Blanc Ramé), Sélect, Montils, or Sémillon.

Fermentation and Distillation

After the grapes are pressed, the juice is left to ferment for 2–3 weeks, with the region's native wild yeast converting the fruit sugars into alcohol; neither sugar nor sulphur may be added. At this point, the resulting wine is about 7 to 8% alcohol. The distillation must be completed by March 31 after harvest.

Distillation takes place in traditionally shaped Charentais copper alembic stills, the design and dimensions of which are also legally controlled. Two distillations must be carried out; the resulting eau de vie is a colourless spirit of about 70% alcohol.

Aging

Once distillation is complete, it must be aged in Limousin oak casks for at least 2 years before it can be sold to the public. It is typically put into casks at an alcohol by volume strength around 70%. As the cognac interacts with the oak barrel and the air, it evaporates at the rate of about 3% each year, slowly losing both alcohol and water (the former more rapidly, as it is more volatile). This phenomenon is called locally la part des anges, or "the angels' share". When the desirable number of years has passed in the oak barrel, the cognac is transferred to "large glass bottles called bonbonnes", then stored for future "blending."

2. Aging Categories:

• VS: ≥ 2 years
• VSOP: ≥ 4 years
• Napoléon: ≥ 6 years
• XO: ≥ 10 years
• XXO: ≥ 14 years
• Hors d’âge: unofficial, older than XO

Blending

The age of the cognac is calculated as that of the youngest component used in the blend. The blend is usually of different ages and (in the case of the larger and more commercial producers) from different local areas. This blending, or marriage, of different eaux de vie is important to obtain a complexity of flavours absent from an eau de vie from a single distillery or vineyard. Each cognac house has a master taster (maître de chai), who is responsible for blending the spirits, so that cognac produced by a company will have a consistent house style and quality. In this respect, it is similar to the process of blending whisky or non-vintage Champagne to achieve a consistent brand flavor. 

Brands

Close to 200 cognac producers exist. According to one 2008 estimate, a large percentage of cognac—more than 90% for the US market—comes from only four producers: Courvoisier (owned by the Campari Group), Hennessy (LVMH), Martell (Pernod Ricard), and Rémy Martin (Rémy Cointreau).

 

II. ARMAGNAC REGION

Armagnac is a distinctive kind of brandy produced in the Armagnac region in Gascony, southwest France. It is distilled from wine usually made from a blend of grapes including Baco 22A, Colombard, Folle blanche and Ugni blanc, traditionally using column stills. The resulting spirit is aged in oak barrels before release.

Geography

The Armagnac region lies between the Adour and Garonne rivers in the foothills of the Pyrenees. The region was granted Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) status in 1936. The official production area is divided into 3 districts that lie in the departments of Gers, Landes, and Lot-et-Garonne. The region contains 150 square kilometres of grape-producing vines:

1.        Bas-Armagnac, sandy soils, delicate, elegant, responsible for about 62% of production.

2.        Armagnac-Ténarèze, clay-limestone, more robust, good aging, accounting for 37%.

3.        Haut-Armagnac, limestone, rare, mostly inactive, a tiny area producing about 1% of all Armagnac.

Each of these areas is controlled by separate AOC regulations. The newest appellation Blanche d'Armagnac ('white Armagnac') was established to allow the production and export of clear, unaged brandies.

Grapes

Ten different varieties of grapes are authorised for use in the production of Armagnac. Of these, four are most common:

1.        Baco blanc or Baco 22A is a French-American hybrid grape variety. It is a cross of Folle blanche and the Noah grape, created in 1898 by the grape breeder François Baco. Folle blanche is its Vitis vinifera parent. Noah, its other parent, is itself a cross of Vitis labrusca and Vitis riparia.

Baco blanc was developed to produce some of the same flavors as Folle blanche but without the susceptibility to American grape disease and phylloxera. In the 20th century it was widely planted in the Gascony region for uses in brandy production and until the late 1970s, Baco blanc was the primary grape of Armagnac. But since the mid to late 20th century, the grape variety has fallen out of favor among French wine producers who are continuing pulling up their hybrid grapes and returning to vinifera-only plantings, such as Ugni Blanc.

2.        Colombard is a white French wine grape variety that may be the offspring of Chenin blanc and Gouais blanc. This makes the grape the sibling of the Armagnac Meslier-Saint-François and the nearly extinct Cognac grape Balzac blanc.

In France, it was traditionally grown in the Charentes and Gascony for distilling into Cognac and Armagnac respectively. Today it is still among the permitted white grape varieties in Bordeaux wine, and in Gascony for Vins de Pays Côtes de Gascogne and the white Floc de Gascogne aperitif drink. The wine is known for its distinctive flavours of Guava.

3.        Folle blanche, also known as Picpoule, Gros Plant, and Enrageat blanc, is a wine grape variety from southwest France. Folle blanche is an offspring of Gouais blanc, with the other parent so far unidentified. It was the traditional grape variety in Cognac and Armagnac production until the 20th century. In Armagnac it has been mostly replaced by its hybrid offspring Baco blanc due to phylloxera damage. In Cognac, the cultivation of Folle blanche is increasing again among enthusiastic wine farmers, but from a very low level.

Folle blanche is used in the Loire Valley area and in Brittany around Nantes to produce Gros Plant du Pays Nantais, a very dry and often tartly acidic wine that pairs well with shellfish. There it is used both in the production of table wine as well as eau de vie.

4.        Ugni blanc, aka Trebbiano is an Italian wine grape, probably related to Garganega, one of the most widely planted grape varieties in the world. It gives good yields but tends to yield undistinguished wine. It can be fresh and fruity but does not keep long. Also known as “St Emilion”, it is the most widely planted white grape of France, being found particularly along the Provençal coast, in the Gironde and Charente. Its high acidity makes it important in Cognac and Armagnac productions.

Production

Armagnac is traditionally distilled once, resulting in alcohol content between 52% and 60%.

Long aging in oak barrels softens the taste and causes the development of more complex flavours and a brown colour.

Aging & Styles:

• Similar age categories to Cognac, aged in Gascon oak, giving spicier profile.
• VS, VSOP, XO, Hors d’âge, Millésimé (Vintage) is common and legal.
• Blanche d’Armagnac: Unaged, clear Armagnac. Fresh, fruity, used in cocktails or served chilled.

Ageing in the barrel removes a part of the alcohol and water by evaporation (known as part des anges—"angels' share") and allows more complex aromatic compounds to appear by oxidation, which further modifies the flavour. Since alcohol evaporates faster than water, the alcohol degree is naturally reduced by an average of 0.4% per year depending on the characteristics of the cellars (average temperature and humidity).

When the Armagnac is considered as matured, it is transferred to large glass bottles (called "Dame Jeanne") for storage.

The main difference between Armagnac and other spirits is that, due to its relatively low alcoholic content, it is generally not diluted with water.

• 3 million bottles/year (vs Cognac’s 200+ million)
• Mostly small producers, craft tradition.
• Higher domestic consumption, niche exports.

The French brandy market is experiencing robust growth, driven by premiumization, emerging markets, and the rise of cocktail culture. While recent destocking and import issues in key markets like the US and China caused a dip in early 2025 for some producers, optimism remains for a recovery later in the year. Innovations in packaging, flavor, and brand experiences, alongside collaborations with mixologists and chefs, are key trends shaping the future.The cognac and brandy market size is expected to see strong growth in the next few years. From $15.79 billion in 2025, It is expected to grow to $19.79 billion in 2029 at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 5.8%.

III. GENERAL OVERVIEW

	Cognac	Armagnac
Location	Charente, Charente-Maritime, parts of Deux-Sèvres and Dordogne	Gers, Landes, Lot-et-Garonne (Occitanie)
Main Grape	Ugni Blanc (98%)	Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche, Baco
Distillation	Double distillation in pot stills (Alambic Charentais)	Single distillation in continuous column still (Alambic Armagnacais)
Aging	Oak casks (mostly Limousin, some Tronçais)	Local Gascon oak or Limousin oak
AOC Status	1936	1936

IV. SENSORY PROFILE COMPARISON

Attribute	Cognac	Armagnac
Aroma	Floral, vanilla, dried fruit	Spicy, prune, earthy, rustic
Body	Light to medium	Full-bodied
Finish	Refined, smooth	Intense, characterful
Aging Potential	Long	Long (especially Bas-Armagnac)
Use in Cocktails	Yes (Sidecar, Sazerac)	Less common, but rising trend

 

V. SERVICE & PAIRING

Ideal Serving:

• Neat in tulip glass at room temperature.
• With a splash of water or small ice cube (optional).
• VS/VSOP: cocktail base.
• XO/Vintage: after-dinner digestif.

Pairings:

• Cognac XO: Blue cheese, foie gras, dark chocolate.
• Armagnac XO: Duck confit, Roquefort, prune tart.
• Blanche d’Armagnac: Ceviche, goat cheese, white fruits.

BONUS WORSKHOP TUROTIAL:

In a blind tasting, distinguishing between Cognac, Armagnac, and French Whisky can be done by focusing on origin, raw materials, distillation method, aging, and aroma profile.

Here's how you can differentiate them in the glass:

COGNAC (France – Charente)

• Base: White grapes (mainly Ugni Blanc)
• Distillation: Double distilled in copper pot stills
• Aging: In French oak (often Limousin or Tronçais)
• Aromas:
• Fruity: Dried apricot, orange peel, grape
• Floral: Violet, iris
• Oak: Vanilla, light spice, toasted almond
• Rancio (older): Leather, nutty, tobacco
• Texture: Silky, polished, elegant

ARMAGNAC (France – Gascony)

• Base: White grapes (Ugni Blanc, Baco, Folle Blanche, Colombard).
• Distillation: Once in column still (lower ABV = more body).
• Aging: Often longer than Cognac, in Gascon oak.
• Aromas:
• Earthy: Prune, fig, walnut.
• Rustic: Leather, spice, tobacco.
• Deeper fruit: Plum jam, caramelized apple.
• Often less polished, more punchy and bold.
• Texture: Fuller, more rustic, sometimes oily.

WHISKEY / WHISKY

• Base: Grains (barley, corn, rye, wheat)
• Distillation:
• Pot still (Scotch, Irish Single Malt)
• Column still (Bourbon, Irish grain, some blends)
• Aging: American oak barrels (often ex-bourbon), but can vary
• Aromas:
• Malt: Biscuit, grain, toast
• Oak: Vanilla, caramel, coconut (esp. Bourbon)
• Peat (if Scotch Islay): Smoke, iodine, seaweed
• Spice: Cinnamon, clove (esp. Rye)
• Fruity: Apple, pear, banana (depending on style)
• Texture: Varies by style—Scotch is often drier, Bourbon rounder/sweeter

TASTING CLUES:

Trait	Cognac	Armagnac	Whiskey
Raw Material	Grapes	Grapes	Grains
Mouthfeel	Smooth, elegant	Heavier, rustic, bold	Depends on type (Bourbon = sweet, Scotch = dry)
Fruity Notes	Fresh/dried citrus, floral	Dried fruits, prune, fig	Apple, banana, or cereal/grain
Oak Signature	Subtle spice, vanilla	Stronger oak, spice, rustic wood	Vanilla, caramel, coconut
Smoke/Peat	Never	Never	Possible (esp. Scotch)
Common Mistake	Confused with Armagnac	Seen as rough Cognac	Hard to confuse if you're used to grainy profile

IN SHORT:

·        Grapey & elegant = Cognac

• Grapey & rustic = Armagnac
• Grainy & toasty = Whiskey

Feel free to browse our range of Cognacs and Armagnacs here : https://www.enjoymowine.com/collections/liquors-spirits/Cognac

Please enjoy brandy with moderation, in a cocktail for aperitif or as a digestif, it is quality that matters, not quantity, Cheers!